MEET AND EAT: A LAZY DAY AT LA LAMPARA
WORDS AND IMAGES: SHIRLEY LE GUERN
La Lampara Italian Restaurant is located in Lidgetton West / Balgowan in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands. It is, quite literally, off the beaten track but well worth the drive along the rustic road after your turn off from the R103. There are signs at all turnings, including the narrow farm track that leads you down to the restaurant. In total, it is about 120kms from Durban.
If ever there was a destination restaurant, then this is it. This was not my first visit to the restaurant but certainly the most pleasant one and made for the perfect, somewhat romantic place to hide away from everyday life and enjoy a delicious lunch on Easter Sunday with a group of close friends.
In essence, this is a traditional Italian family style pizzeria and restaurant which specialises in North Italian food. The most notable thing is the location in a restored old red brick dairy at the bottom of a hill. The tree lined track that leads down is a treat with wonderful views over the Midlands (which always has me promising to return more often than I do) as are the beautiful gardens that make this, as many have said, a step back into olde worlde Tuscany.
La Lampara’s home is a farm owned by the Canderle family which still owns and manages it. Historically, it is located on one of the original settler farms in the area – Farm Boschfontein in Balgowan. Pino is the self-taught chef who has translated a family history of cooking into a great menu and his wife Caroline and her team of waitrons make for a very clued up team to introduce you to an extensive menu that is chalked on the wall as well as printed on cards in Italian.
ON THE MENU
Although I have done a formal review of this restaurant in the past, the idea behind this visit was to simply be part of a jovial group looking for a pleasant outing and good food and I certainly wasn’t disappointed.
Part of a family that regularly partakes of pizza (both the fast food variety and the more genuine fare) I always try to steer away from the conventional. That means that the large traditional, wood fired pizza oven that charms many a guest didn’t tempt me.
We arrived early but the restaurant quickly filled. Two fresh focaccia breads with olive tapenade were placed in the centre or the table and made for a welcome nibble whilst we took our time to go through the menu.
There are staples for which the restaurant is well known which include some delicious pastas as well and veal. One of our friends chose the ravioli and wasn’t disappointed. Our vegetarian friend found it a little more difficult to find something that suited and eventually opted for a pizza which she said was tasty.
The rest of the carnivores were spoilt for choice. Although, somehow, we couldn’t bring ourselves to dine on rabbit on Easter Sunday, it was there. My friend enjoyed her baby chicken which was prepared with lemon, herbs and a touch of chilli in the pizza oven – although the baby was more of a teenager and at least half of the bird left with her in a doggy bag.
My husband, a picky eater at best who always has a complaint, was silenced by what he described as a melt-off-the-bone lamb shank – although I had to agree that a little more of the butternut, crunchy green beans and mash would have been a good idea. Our German friend, who is very knowledgeable about food, quizzed the staff before ordering his pork belly which was served up just as he liked it – slow roasted with a fresh apple sauce and a really crispy crackling.
I was initially tempted to indulge in the oxtail but eventually settled on seared tuna on the advice of Caroline. Although the crust might have been a little on the spicy side for my taste, it was cooked to perfection with the inside pink and flavourful.
At La Lampara, the menu changes weekly with the emphasis being on sourcing fresh ingredients locally. That shows up in the quality of the meals for which one pays a slightly higher price but which are well worth the investment. With the purse strings a little tighter these days, we have opted to eat out less often but to invest in a better meal when we do. La Lampara is the ideal location to do just that.
LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION
What La Lampara has gotten so right is making the experience part of the food. A relaxed, trattoria-style eatery in one of the province’s most beautiful locations is a must.
My initial visit all those years ago to do a review for a well-known foodie publication left me feeling cheated by indifferent service and good, but over-priced food. We were walk-ins and it was a very cold day. We were ushered to the last table in a very full restaurant and left to shiver away from the fire. So, if you are going in winter (in fact, whenever you are going) make sure that you book.
Also remember that this restaurant is a little like a good wine and improves every time you go.
I have always eaten inside the restaurant which can, at first, seem somewhat dark, but it has a beautiful ambiance. The closed-in patio comes complete with fairy lights which add even more magic. Add a fire on a chilly Midlands day and you probably won’t want to drive home.
I’m now looking forward to dining out of doors at La Lampara on my next visit.
SERVICE AND PRACTICALITIES
As already mentioned, La Lampara has a beautiful ambience. There is plenty of parking at the end of the drive. Service is good and friendly – although we found that it was a little harder to get attention (I needed a sharp knife to cut my tuna and was left twiddling my thumbs for a bit) as the restaurant filled up.
La Lampara is open from Thursday to Saturday for lunch and dinner and for Sunday lunch. It is also open on public holidays and makes that perfect venue to celebrate a special occasion.
