ALPINE HEATH: FOOD FOR THE SOUL
Out & About visited Alpine Heath in January. This was our experience
Our sojourn into the beautiful Drakensberg Mountains in January had more to do with work than with play. The truth of it was that we were looking for a peaceful getaway that would take us away from the distractions of the city and enable us to focus on the new year and its challenges, do some planning and visualising and come up with a strategy that would see us busily through the rest of 2024.
Take it from us, if you are looking for a combination of stillness and inspiration with a good dollop of fresh air and tranquillity, then Alpine Heath is definitely the place to be.
Alpine Heath is a four-star resort nestled in the Northern Drakensberg – the highest part of this dramatic 300-kilometre mountain range – and, although punted as a luxury resort, is probably better described as comfortable and homely.
The chalets, which are reminiscent of the European influence that the name also suggests, are comfortable and well equipped. We unloaded our bags on a super-hot day and were a little disappointed to find there was no air conditioning. However, as the weather quickly turned and the storm clouds rolled in, this became far less of an issue.
One of the most memorable aspects of our entire trip were the constantly changing skies which went from moody and misty with the mountain tops barely peeking through to sweeping cloudscapes populated by bulbous and fascinating cloud formations that transform themselves at the drop of a hat. Sometimes it is enough to just listen to the silence and take in the horizon.
A COUNTRY HOME BASE
The surrounds are lovely and we were thrilled to see various buck grazing and plenty of birdlife. Although there a busy collection of feathered visitors just around our chalet, there is, again, much more to explore as the Berg hosts more than 290 species, including a number of rate birds and even the bearded vulture.
It seems hard to believe that this stunning property, with its lovely aloes, started out as a former farm that comprised disused agricultural cropland and a wattle forest with watercourses that were choked with this invasive species. It opened to the public as Alpine Health in 1996. Cudos to the conservationists who have done a great job in this sublime setting.
A few short walks took us through the lush grasslands and even to the waterfall at the bottom of the property. Next time round, we have resolved to make more time for longer hikes (as this is an area known for this) as well as a visit to the famous Tugela Falls which cascades down five drops and is the second highest waterfall in the world. Then there’s the Royal Natal National Park and the legendary Amphitheatre.
Whether you are extremely active or more sedentary and just take in the magnificent views as we did, it is impossible to deny that any encounter with the mighty Drakensberg is good for the soul. I realised that I need to make more time to getaway to the mountains which are just over four hours away – hardly a long trip.
For those who don’t know, the Drakensberg is the highest mountain range in Southern Africa and, to my mind at least, probably one of the greatest attractions that the province of KZN has to offer. The English name reflects Voortrekker Afrikaans for Dragon Mountains which is very apt – especially when you experience the fierce but awe-inspiring thunderstorms that we did.
The Zulu name is uKhahlamba which means “barriers of spears” which is another apt description for the austere rockfaces and peaks that are the foundation for what is now a world heritage site. This was declared in 2000 due to the region’s ecological and cultural diversity as well as the beautiful San paintings which I am also yet to see.
Apart from spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, Alpine Heath also provides many healthy activities that are almost synonymous with Drakensberg resorts – horse-riding, well-maintained tennis courts and a sparkling pool. There is fishing, quad biking and other adventure sports close by if you are so inclined.
We indulged at – and can recommend – the Be Spoilt Beauty Salon & Spa where much of our stress was quickly ironed out with the help of two wonderfully friendly and skilled therapists. However, I confess that we gave the well-equipped fitness centre in the village a miss and headed instead for the quirky pub complete with a collection of wall-to-ceiling old musical instruments, vinyls and album covers that took us back to the sixties and beyond. Inside must be wonderful on chilly winter evenings but we enjoyed a cool G&T outside whilst chatting to a lovely Polish visitor who was clearly enjoying her first time visit to South Africa.
Also in the village is a quaint chapel complete with bell tower, a café and a shop which, sadly, could have been better stocked with locally made goodies. Perhaps the greatest disappointment was finding a nifty pair of pink veldskoen – only to turn them over to read “MADE IN CHINA!”
Instead, I bought a funny little warthog from a local at the gate to the resort just to put a smile on my face every time I am reminded of our unexpected getaway. I think that shops such as these are an opportunity missed to grow the livelihoods of locals who struggle to make a living no matter how charming the rural setting.
But back to our stay. Although we did tend to go the self-catering route and enjoyed the kitchen which is fitted with all home comforts, we did take a break for lunch in the café and order a pizza for dinner. Although here was a bit of a wait, this was eventually delivered to our door in the middle of a hectic thunderstorm still piping hot and was probably one of the best I’ve had in a long while.
SHOPPING COUNTRY STYLE
The one thing that I can never resist whenever I am away is shopping – and especially when I am in the KZN hinterland. After all, this is the land of fresh farm fare, cheese, pork, trout and more.
En route home, we stopped off in Winterton, a small town on the banks of the Tugela River. Founded as far back as 1905, it still has that special feel of being a small farming town with a long history that dates back to the Boer Wars. The well-known battle site, Spioenkop, is close by and is well sign posted. There are plenty of museums and monuments for history buffs, not to mention the nearby Drakensberg Boys’ Choir School.
Our stop off was at the quirky Pig n Plough, a farm stall and eatery which combines a restaurant with a farm style deli with an array of preserves, pickles, jams, sweets, pastries, ready-made meals and more. (These would be a great pop-in-the-oven family meal at any of the nearby Berg resorts).
The old house with its wrap around veranda is the perfect place to sample the home style menu and enjoy the collection of many olde worlde goodies that bring back memories – from wooden tennis rackets (yes, they did exist) to train sets and other memorabilia, not to mention the old farm equipment tucked into nooks and crannies in the lovely country garden.
There is also a gift shop and a little nursery.
Another stop off point once you find yourself back on the N3 has to be the Windmills Farm. In my book, they truly live up to their declaration that they turn out the best pies in the province. Packed with plenty of beef or chicken and wrapped in golden, flaky pastry, they fill the gap for passers-by.
This is a dog friendly spot that is popular with many who are travelling with their canine companions and also has a selection of restaurants.
En route home, I always stock up on homemade bread and pastries which are freshly baked in-house every day with ingredients that include Italian or stoneground, unbleached flour and free-range eggs. Burgers and buns also come directly from the kitchen as do many of the other goodies to be found behind the huge cabinet in the Windmills shop.
Just across the way on the Nottingham Road turnoff (Exit 132) is the Linga Lapa Farmstall which is home to an amazing butchery with a stock of local meat. It also turns out some tasty biltong.
Here, too, you’ll find a deli stocked with delicious homemade sauces, pickles and chutneys, vegetables, honey, local dairy and beers as well as travellers’ basic necessities. A cozy restaurant, coffee shop, a homeware store selling everything from clothing to Nguni skins, furniture and art plus an indigenous nursery complete the package – and make it extremely difficult to get me back into my car for the journey home.
